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I got my hands on some 3/4 boards that look to be mahogany that were to used for crating material. I was going to laminate them to see how they worked for a neck.What are you guys,or gals, using for glue? I was thinking HHG. Clinton

While Hot Hide Glue works fine, you will be racing the clock and tempting fate trying to get laminations clamped quickly with HHG. Titebond is the thing to use as it has a longer open time and work well with just about any kind of wood. For parts that derectly involve tone such as interior bracing I use HHG or fish glue. For structural pieces such as necks and tail blocks I use Titebond.

I'm assuming Titebond I. I was wondering how to spread that much HHG in 30 seconds. I'm fast,but not that fast! Clinton

Mario convinced me a long time ago that water-based adhesives are not a good idea on necks. The water can cause wood to warp. As a result, I use Titebond for neck laminating and epoxy when adhering the FB to the neck.

He's usually a good guy to listen to when he posts...even when he's ripping you a new one . I've acquired a few new ones over the years!

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Clinton, this is the one and only place that poly urathane glue is good in guitars. Very structural, resistant to heat and moisture. The ooze won't matter because you'll square it all up when it's dry anyway. (just put paper down under it or you'll be sorry)
JJ, I'm confused by your interpretation of Mario's advice. Isn't titebond water based?

ditto paul's comment?

Good catch, Paul. Titebond...water-based? I guess you're right. I believe he actually meant the FB to neck bond should avoid water. Hmmm...now that makes me wonder why similar issues wouldn't impact the neck block...more mass dissipating water better than a lower mass of neck wood?...just a guess. Another guess is that HHG is an evaporative glue where the water is driven out to effect a bond...and perhaps the water in Titebond is part of a cross-lnking process that is used up chemically in the polymer chain.

Anyway...I was victimized by the water from HHG significantly forcing a backbow in a neck on my 1st guitar. I've used epoxy since and have had no more warpage.JJ Donohue39012.9552893518

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

As I understand it (from a long discussion with an engineer at Franklin), the water in Titebond raises the grain of the wood and promotes penetration and adhesion.

If the wood is stable, it should swell but not warp. In my experience, leaving a few days in between glue-up and "true-up" elimates any possiblity of a problem.

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John Watkins
CNC Guitar Parts

I've only laminated two - used West System epoxy. Plenty of working time, and wicked strong...

-Mark

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Pullman, WA

The more I know, the more I know I don't know.

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go with poly, it's very messy but works well.

A couple of billion guitars have been built successfully with water-based aliphatic resins glues. Use your favorite (I prefer Lee Valley's but have used Titebond I too), but as Dr. Watkins suggests, let it sit for a bit. I laminate my necks a few months before I work them.

And although others have had luck with it, I have had nothing but frustration and mess with poly glues. No more for me!

I've been doing many neck laminates and only use titebond or LMI white....whatever I have on hand. Both work great!

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

The best stuff is contact cement or rubber cement. That stuff is good and stiff.




Please don't believe what I just said...

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Titebond for me. I usually only laminate a 2 piece neck, so I suppose I could also use hide glue without too much trouble. I glue up a few at a time and leave them without any further processing until I need them.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

John Mayes does a nice demo in his neck building DVDs. He uses titebond I believe. I am about ready to try it myself.

West System epoxy? I'm going to have to check into that one. Looks like it could come in handy on several different applications around the shop. Thanks for all the input ! Clinton